Articles in this section
- Setting Bearing Travel Using an Adjustable Master Cylinder
- Aftermarket Master Cylinder Adjustment
- Clutch Measurement Specs and Information
- Break In Instructions
- Single Disc Install Tips
- Twin Disc Install Tips
- Triple Disc Install Tips
- Billet Bearing Support Install Guide
- Fbody / GTO / C5 Billet Bearing Support Install Guide
- Swap Application Master Cylinder Adjustment
Single Disc Install Tips
We do not recommend inexperienced technicians install these units, that said, if you get stuck or are not sure about something STOP IMMEDIATELY AND CONTACT US! Ignoring things or getting something wrong during the installation can be very costly in the end and is not covered under our warranty – when in doubt ASK!
· If you are installing this clutch in a Gen 1 CTS-V make certain that you use the following hardware. Flywheel Bolt GM pn – 11569956, this is very important as the factory flywheel bolts are too long and this will result in crankshaft/bearing main cap damage!
· You must use Red Loctite on the pressure plate bolts and you must install new flywheel bolts as they are a TTY bolt from the factory, GM includes the loctite/sealant on these bolts when you purchase them, we recommend adding Red Loctite to those bolts as well.
· When installing the clutch disc, the dampened hub (green side) faces the pressure plate; the flat part of the clutch disc faces the flywheel. If you get this backwards your clutch will not disengage and you will cause significant damages that are not covered under warranty.
· Make sure that all friction mating surfaces are clean. Spray brake cleaner on a rag and wipe the surfaces down to get all of the packing oils, etc. off of the surfaces. This is important as fluid contamination is the #1 reason for chatter as well as friction failure and is NOT covered under our warranty. NEVER spray any kind of cleaners on the friction themselves, this will damage the frictions.
· DO NOT LUBRICATE THE PILOT BEARING OR INPUT SHAFT!!
· YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST MEASURE YOUR SETUP TO ENSURE THINGS ARE AS THEY SHOULD BE. There are multiple tolerances at play (bell housing, transmission case, clutch assembly, crankshaft flange, and engine block) that can be off one way or another, by measuring you ensure that your entire setup, not just the clutch, is correct and within tolerance. IF YOU FAIL TO DO THIS YOU CAN/WILL DAMAGE THE CLUTCH SETUP WHICH WILL NOT BE COVERED UNDER OUR WARRANTY UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES. See our FAQ page for information on how to measure and what tolerances you should see (under “Does my clutch need a shim”).
· Quick Time/aftermarket bellhousings will almost always need some sort of a shim – their tolerances are quite a bit different than OEM and vary from part to part.
· Never attempt to measure the setup with a tape measure, you must always use a set of calipers – whether they are digital or not does not matter, as long as you can read them. If you contact us with measurements, they must be to the .001” or we cannot help you.
· If you're installing this in a swap application and have an adjustable master cylinder, you must follow the directions in this link to finalize your installation - Swap Application Master Cylinder Adjustment
NOTE – DOWEL PINS MUST BE A TIGHT / PRESS FIT - IF THEY ARE NOT A TIGHT / PRESS FIT DO NOT CONTINUE WITH INSTALLATION, CONTACT US IMMEDIATELY!! We install these for you here and they do not leave loose - if something happens where the dowel pins become loose contact us prior to installing the clutch.
Flywheel bolts are torqued in three phases, the torque specs are 15-37-74 ft/lbs of torque. The torque sequence is 1-4-6-2-5-3 for 6-bolt flywheels, 1-5-7-3-8-4-6-2 for 8-bolt flywheels, and 1-5-8-3-6-2-7-4-9 for 9-bolt flywheel.
Pressure plate bolts are torqued in three phases, the torque specs are 20-40-52 ft/lbs of torque. The torque sequence is 1-4-6-2-5-3