The answer to this question will always be no.
This said, the adjustable master cylinders offered by the guys at Tick Performance are outstanding units and are great for race-only/limited street setups. Any racer or aggressive street driver will benefit from these, anyone who just daily drives their car should know that they will add ~30% stiffness to the pedal effort and will shrink the engagement window, additionally they are not required for our setups.
If you're using these make absolutely sure they are adjusted every time you install a new clutch, and that adjustment is checked on a regular basis - it's very easy to damage any clutch that is made with an aftermarket master cylinder assembly - not only is this the responsibility of the end user/installer, any damages caused by this are not covered under our warranty.
Below is a quick guide on adjusting your master cylinder correctly - keep in mind that if you have a swap vehicle you will need to visit Swap Application Master Cylinder Adjustment for the proper way to adjust your setup.
It's important to note that every time you check for proper release you do so with the following procedure. You must start the test for release with the car in neutral and your foot off the clutch pedal and brake pedal (the car should not roll forward or backward when you are in this position, if it does you must find a suitable flat spot to do this) - as well as making sure your parking brake is off. To test for release you depress the clutch pedal only and attempt to put the car into gear - depressing the brake pedal at the same time will give you a "false" result, also, not starting each test with the car in neutral and your foot off the clutch and brake pedal will give you a "false" result. Every single time you test for release in both first and reverse you must do so this way.
Put the car on level ground, set the clutch pedal position halfway between the brake pedal position and the floorboard with the adjustment nut loose.
With the procedure outlined above try and put the car into first gear, note that the car will attempt to roll forward if the clutch is not fully releasing. You will repeat this with the procedure above until the setup goes into first gear smoothly and the car does not move - it is important to make one turn adjustments at a time, do not just wildly turn the adjustment as damage to the clutch can and will occur. Once that has been achieved you will put the car back into first gear, and while depressing the clutch pedal, rev the car slowly to 5000 rpm, if the car "creeps" forward you need to adjust accordingly, once the car can be rev'd slowly to this point, and it does not move, repeat this for reverse. Reverse is a bit more finicky because the synchro's are sub-par comparatively speaking, it's not uncommon to have to adjust more to get reverse to release.
After the car passes both the initial gear selection, and the rev test, without moving then you adjust the turnbuckle 1/2 more turns and lock it down.
We recommend flushing the hydraulics every other oil change at a minimum and every time you have a track outing. It's not uncommon to require more adjustments after flushing the system and as the clutch wears. Avoid, at all costs, just aimlessly adjusting the master as this will (not can, but WILL) damage the pressure plate and will not be covered under warranty.